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2012 FASHION TRENDS Pretty please. From ruffles at Valentino to the whites and muted pastels and the drapes and swags on runways all over Paris, designers have a sweet tooth for spring. Not girly frills, not sexpot skin shows, not over-decorated glitz, but delicate looks just this side of innocence. Even jeweling is applied with a light childlike hand. Pleating. Knife pleats, accordion pleats, box pleats, cartridge pleats, sunburst pleats, umbrella pleats, stitched-down pleats, inverted pleats, Fortuny pleats, cluster pleats They're all part of the fashion fold for spring, and an integral part of couture look-backs. Standouts included Clare Waight Keller's leather-stripped pleats at Chloe and Sonia Rykiel's pleated coats in four colors. Lace. Alencon lace, Battenberg lace, Brussels lace, Chantilly lace, St. Gall lace, Venetian lace and lace's sister, crochet. All these airy, openwork fabrics are the networks that broadcast the news of delicacy, refinement and just plain beauty. Shirts and shirtdresses. The new crop looks anything but borrowed from the boys. Phoebe Philo's white cotton shirts with long pleated backs and her body-friendly shirtdresses for Celine stood out -- literally and figuratively. Softing is key, with delicate fabrics in muted colors setting the pace. Vionnet's shirtdresses that end in shirttails collared the market in this category. Hips are hip again. Peplums bring focus to the hips, especially the carved two-tiered peplums at Celine. Hip-stitched pleats swish back to the '20s and '30s, and hip-placed belts also sing out "hip, hip, hoorays." Sport. Track pants at Lanvin, football jerseys at Isabel Marant (where numbers 57 and 37 worked out above narrow printed pants), anoraks, parkas and motorcycle jackets in many collections. And enough mesh, even color-blocked mesh, at Stella McCartney to make even a non-tennis player want to jump over the net on her way to the checkout counter. Sea change. With such major designers as Lagerfeld for Chanel, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen all showing collections with underwater themes, one might speculate that instead of plumbing the street protesters for inspiration, designers are turning to creatures of the deep for pearls of wisdom.
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